![]() The only way we might get an answer to what the future holds is by asking you to do a visual check every year and tell us your findings. So 1+9 fixing clearly lasts 10 years but no-one knows how long it will last beyond 10 years are the two conclusions I feel we can reach instantly. So I think you are saying that your film fixed at 1+9 10 years ago looks no different to another film fixed 10 years ago at 1+9 but then re-fixed recently at 1+4? 36 sheets is a great number for me it uses the fix well and is three batches in my film washer. Ideally, I try to collect enough sheets to make using two-bath fix at 1+4 economical. Again, I'm wasting fix, but less than if I'd used the stronger dilution. For an intermediate number of films, I'll sometimes use the 1+9 dilution in a two-bath regime. I'm sure I don't use it to capacity not even close, but I don't toss as much active fixer as if I'd used the 1+4 dilution. For just a couple of sheets, 500ml of fixer at 1+9 is fine with extended fixing times. I've got several fixing regimes based on the number of sheets I have to develop so I can toss the fix after the session. For tray processing sheets, especially using two-bath fixing, saving fixer just isn't practical for me. If I were shooting roll film and developing a couple of rolls every few days, I would likely keep a liter of fix 1+4 going till it reached exhaustion (clip test!) and would never use 1+9. Note, I never save fixer for extended periods of time like some do I try to match the amount and dilution of my fixer to the amount of film I have for a specific batch. It takes about twice through the change-the-second-to-the-first-bath cycle to get the most out of the fixer. But, you need a bit of film to do this economically. ![]() The best and most economical way of fixing film is to collect enough film to use a two-bath fixing regime and the 1+4 dilution. I use the clip test primarily to test for exhaustion.ĭon't misunderstand me here though I'm not advocating using the 1+9 as a standard procedure just when you have a very low volume that needs to be done right away. Both get many more than 3x the clearing time. I usually fix 320Tri-X for 6 minutes to get rid of the pink coupling dyes. Film is on a waterproof base, so extra time, within reason, will not hurt. I try to use it only to about 1.5x as a safety margin.Īs for fixing time, I fix film for a minimum of 3x the clearing time tested just before the batch. Toss the fix when the clearing time is getting close to 2x the time in fresh fixer. I've tested this, and it works just fine, but the fixing times need to be extended and the capacity of the fixer is reduced. Please if you can help me write a reply as I really enjoyed processing and want to do it more(apart from stuffing up the film a little bit).I use Ilford Rapid Fix at the 1+9 dilution for film occasionally, when I have just a few sheets to do. I apologise in advance as these questions have probably really obvious answers. Does that mean developer never reached these parts? How do I make sure it does? There also seems to be some fully black lines around the bit of film with the letters Kodak 400tx. Looking at the negs now there is some sort of random line throughout the film that is a whiter colour compared to the rest of the film, along with some white dots that are the same colour as the line. ![]() Some of the shots are completely underexposed but that’s fine as I shot this with point and shoot + flash at night (which is exactly why I used it as a test roll) But after the water wash at the end this tinge went away? Why? ![]() When I got the film out of the tank I was freaking out because most of the film was a purple tinge and I was afraid I had underdeveloped it. I developed a roll of 36 exp TMAX-400 My method was: Kodak D-76 diluted 1:1 for 12.5 min Used water as a stopper for 1 min Ilford rapid fix for 8 min Water rinse for about 5 min ![]()
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